For the first time in its 22-year existence, Theory brought its men’s and women’s collections together on one runway.

The brand’s in-house team designed the women’s collection. (Francesco Fucci, former women’s creative director, left Theory after the spring collection; he had been on board since 2018. The company is looking for Fucci’s replacement.) Siddhartha Shukla, chief brand officer of Theory, who oversees all design, product strategy and marketing and communications, wanted to move beyond Theory’s signature office-focused daywear aesthetic to embrace a more evening spirit. The fall collection still offered a solid wardrobe of approachable everyday essentials, rooted in the most authentic New York sportswear heritage. It also had a big focus on sustainability, with recycled wool, cashmere and down.

Military and sartorial looks were combined in the women’s lineup, which offered a range of polished staples cut in uncomplicated, rigorous silhouettes. Suits were infused with a uniform-like spirit enhanced by the military green hue, which was also worked for a suede safari jacket worn with a high-slit skirt. Quintessentially feminine looks included minimal dresses with light draping, as well as ribbed, knit skirts and tops paired with leather jackets.

The men’s wear range was centered on well-executed staples injected with an urban sensibility. Impeccably tailored suits were worn with puffers made from recycled down and oversize sweaters with a cozy artisanal feel were matched with slim pants. An evening touch was introduced via revisited tuxedos with a double stripe on the leg that felt young and modern.

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