Patric DiCaprio, Claire Sullivan and Bryn Taubensee admitted to feeling very frustrated by the fashion industry, especially in New York, which according to DiCaprio “supports only a certain type of designer.” The lack of funds this season didn’t allow the brand to host a full runway show, despite a last-minute catwalk event that took place at Dover Street Market on Saturday night. With one-on-one meetings on Tuesday, the designers presented their collection, where they said they brought together their frustrations. There was a dark feel running through the lineup, which actually looked extremely cohesive and well executed. Mixing and matching sequins, camouflage patterns and stripes, they played with exaggerated proportions — ultra bold and shrunken — but also developed shapes in between, making the lineup more commercially approachable. For example, the nocturnal flamboyance of voluminous ruffled, multilayered dresses was counterbalanced by the elongated silhouette of a ruffled white shirt paired with sequined pants and layered with a cropped camo biker jacket. A corset was worn with an asymmetric ruffled skirt and an oversize striped shirt was paired with a sequined miniskirt with a sculpted hem. Still rebellious and riotous, which is, after all, Vaquera’s authentic spirit, this collection nevertheless marked a significant step forward in the evolution and maturation of the brand.