Kunihiko Morinaga nurtured his inner child for fall, taking wooden bricks as his building blocks and creating boxy panels of fabric that snapped together interchangeably to form a range of outsized, exaggerated mix-and-match silhouettes.
While the underlying fabrics and clothes referenced — a trenchcoat, chunky knitwear, a padded bomber jacket and indigo denim — were mostly familiar, the direction in which he took these staple wardrobe items was far from it.
Squares, rectangles, semi-circles and triangles of fabric were fixed together in what the designer described backstage as a comment on diversity and sustainability, with each part designed to be combined in myriad ways — the simplest combinations consisting of around five panels, the most complex up to nine.
For fashion’s indecisive — it’s not often you can choose to wear a trenchcoat, tweed, a puffer skirt and pink fake fur all at once — the lineup offered quirky appeal. But it also had less of the poetic intensity of Morinaga’s last two collections.