Creating garments in the age of eco-consciousness is a conundrum that designer and activist Antonin Tron is well acquainted with. “It’s a pivotal moment. We are all in conflict and that’s normal because it’s a time of transition. We just need to do our best to find positive change,” he said backstage. “I hear that fashion is bad, almost as if we needed to hide something, but I think we just need to find new solutions.”
For Atlein, that meant following his sustainable messages and methods. Material-wise, he used deadstock where possible (50 percent of his collection this season); replaced leather with a jersey made glossy by an indigo coating; and employed material made of recycled locally collected plastic bottles to cut a sharp suit.
Style-wise, Tron stuck with his pared-back style, exploring conventional trappings of femininity in lacy slipdresses, and splashing floral motifs and animal patterns to hint at endangered nature. The draping that put him on the map curled around the body for dresses that could also be worn back-to-front. Quilted jackets and coats were layered, while dresses featured a shawl-cowl that could be snapped off. This smart wardrobe with elements that could be added or removed as conditions dictate made all the right compromises.
Models sported striking facial markings, inspired by Russian programmer Grigory Bakunov, who invented makeup patterns designed to foil facial recognition algorithms. The overall message: that solutions might be staring us in the face, but we may not recognize them.