One foot in the West, one foot in the East and her heart set on making a mark further afield is one way to describe Shanghai-based designer Fang Yang. After presenting her first couture in the French capital last summer, she showed her By Fang ready-to-wear line during the fall women’s wear collections, as part of a commercial push toward Europe — she has recently set up a studio in Paris — the Middle East and North America.
The designer took cues from the palette of often-overlooked Bauhaus textile artist Anni Albers and prettily spun origami — a longstanding inspiration — in the construction and decoration of a lineup of smart daywear pieces. For example, on a classic blazer, geometric inserts created curves that hugged the waist, while the placket of a shirt was folded into intricate triangles. But she also strayed away from formal folds with success, leaving fabric to drape naturally. It turned a parka into a cape-analogue, one of the more memorable pieces.
Already sold in retailers such as Beams in Japan and at some 40 doors in China, including its own French Concession flagship store, the line retails for between 400 euros for a crisp poplin blouse with an origami collar and just over 1,000 euros for a sweeping coat with a generous shawl collar in thick tweed, with an average range price of 650 euros. That’d get you a pretty peacoat with a grosgrain trim folded into a cascade of origami triangles sailing down the side.