After focusing on hoodies and jeans, Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Isik set out to celebrate tailoring at their Berlin-based label GmbH, which has long exalted creative pattern cutting. “We’re still independent, and how we existed so far is really because people come back to us for our craftsmanship,” Isik asserted.
The show opened with sculpted jackets and coats in gray and black with swirling panels, hinting at the garment’s unique architecture and showing off Isik’s cutting skills. Worn with dress pants and Cuban heels, the silhouettes were sharp. Since GmbH is a finalist for the Woolmark Prize this year, there were body-con knitted dresses with cutouts for women, thick oversize sweaters and surprising off-the-shoulder ribbed tops for men. Backstage, Isik explained that pretty much all fabrics were either recycled, organic or biodegradable. The leather jackets and coats, for example, were made of a corn-based material.
WWD Critique: The restrained color palette — black, red, gray, brown — allowed the fabrics and structures to shine. It was a grown-up, luxury collection imbued with a hint of mystery: a couple of satin pieces were decorated with Zodiac prints.