Honayda Serafi is always looking for the next woman to inspire her — her mother, people she encounters in outreach programs, those in history. “That’s how you empower, it goes from one generation to the next,” she said. This fall, she had Queen Dihya, a Berber ruler who led a resistance in early 7th-century Maghreb, on her mind. But the lineup was more majestic than martial, chockablock with statuesque, leg-baring evening columns, power jumpsuits and sharply cut tailored separates in a palette of rich purple and golden yellow. Embroidered patterns and a graphic scattering of geometric forms were inspired by traditional Amazighi patterns. Of note: Serafi opted to exclude materials of animal origin. Even the silk was artificial.

WWD Critique: While there were plenty of glamorous outfits that’ll please her red-carpet clientele, it’s her takes on traditional garments of her homeland of Saudi Arabia — kaftan jumpsuit, anyone? — that make her work stand out.

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