Some clothes you wear to blend in, others to shine. These two sides of the feminine wardrobe were explored by Kwaidan Editions, the edgy women’s wear label founded by Léa Dickely and Hung La. “We were inspired by the different disguises of femininity and what it means to dress as a woman,” said Dickely, who had pictures of PJ Harvey on stage as well as crossdressers on her inspiration board for fall.

The silhouettes were either extremely simple — long cream overcoats worn with slouchy tailored trousers and latex accessories in the shape of plastic bags, as if the model had just popped out for some groceries — or done in screaming colors, such as a slime green shirt with nipped-in waist, a slinky purple silk shirtdress or a red blouse with a moiré sheen.

The overall effect was of trippy normcore: A fleece jumper was paired with sporty trainers and baggy trousers, which would have been an unremarkable silhouette had the pants not been made of silver plastic. The whole offering was surprisingly seductive — down to the latex shirtdress with its built-in brassiere. “We didn’t corset the breasts,” said Dickely. “We just let them have their own life.”

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