For fall, Lutz Huelle reined in volumes a few notches and employed color to deliver the punch. The blasts came in a crisp, sherbet green and golden yellow, as well as searing hot pink used for a roomy baseball jacket and pencil trousers ensemble. It got the heart racing. 

Drawing on the premise that people always reach for the same things even if their closets are packed, Huelle was after clothing that gives emotion without overpowering — an amazing color or a twisted classic.

“We’ve spent loads of money on all this amazing stuff but you just wear the crummy old T-shirt that you’ve had for years. So I thought, ‘What is it that makes a garment you want to wear all the time?’”

Such pieces are like old friends, he thought, and dug through recent seasons to find them.

Call them brand staples: The signature bomber jacket reconstructions, with the emphasis on trenches this time; jean skirts, just below the knees with a slit and twisted so a back pocket sits in front; bell-sleeves, shrunken down a tad compared to past seasons, were applied to a fancy, satin green jacket or a classic, beige trench. Tailoring was also an emphasis and he included a range of masculine, double-breasted jackets from a classic, gray wool to hot pink — adding an extra touch by cinching it with a thin belt. 

Compared to the breezy, tussled hair French girl romance that everyone and their big financial backer seems to be peddling these days, the Lutz look is definitely a more interesting proposition — his subtle couture flair brightens the streets nicely.

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