Sculptural and dramatic might be Toni Maticevski’s A-game, but he knows when to keep it clean. “As much as the ruffling is quite pretty and playful, I’m drawn to how much I can simplify a line while still keeping it interesting,” he said. Inspired by nature, his fall season read as the flip side to the cyber-glam of pre-fall, bringing an earthy palette of winter whites and pared-back shapes. Among the standouts were a dress with a fluted neckline, impeccable double-breasted jackets with kimono backs and ample blouses in devoré chiffon.

Where possible, he favored fully recyclable man-made fabrics, such as a buttery double-face Neoprene with a satin feel.

WWD Critique: When restrained, his volumes and folds looked more approachable, as cunning cuts designed to skim and flatter, rather than showpieces.