Redemption’s Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti changed the score for fall, setting his collection to an opera soundtrack inspired by “Madame Butterfly.” Asian influences — cue cherry blossom prints, kimono shapes and flowing bell sleeves — were evident in the glamorous-as-ever lineup. These were contrasted with statement tailoring for a night out — at the opera — and outerwear pieces, including striking check tuxedos glittering with transparent sequins and velvets galore in rich hues of red and purple. The lineup included the label’s first men’s wear pieces, tying in with the theme.

WWD Critique: A darker, almost melancholic register becomes Redemption well. While there was still plenty of the label’s signature glitz to be had, the deep color palette and opulent fabrics hit the right note.

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