Cars could be seen passing by through the floor-to-ceiling windows, but inside the cavernous white-and-black space where Hyke staged its fall show there were only models and photographers. Like so many events, the show was canceled to audience members due to the outbreak of the coronavirus, but it was live-streamed on the brand’s web site.
Designers Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara continued on their path of reinventing military classics and workwear with a modern touch, but their latest offering was in many ways softer and less structured than some recent seasons. Voluminous outerwear took centerstage, with elements of trenchcoats showing up on billowing ponchos and coat dresses with extra-long sleeves. Elegant separates such as ankle-length fringed skirts and crisp, high-neck blouses were sometimes accessorized with knit pinafore-like pieces with long fringe and high funnel necks. Some stopped at the chest while others extended to the knee.
Hyke is also known for its athleticwear collaborations, having previously worked with The North Face. This season saw a series of T-shirts, jackets and sneakers by Adidas mixed in with the more high fashion items. In other nods to functionality that still fell squarely in the fashion realm, the designers played with the idea of the inside on the outside. Some of the coats had their quilted linings or a fuzzy, faux-fur fabric on the exterior.
Most of the palette was made up of soft and subdued shades of beige, white and black, but some bright yellow gave the collection extra punch. A series of coats and long dresses in an ivory and blue windowpane check managed to feel both sweet and chic at the same time.