The multitalented Matty Bovan did just about everything for this collection, from hand-crocheting the fishnets and making military buttons out of jam jar lids, to doing the hair, makeup and photography for the look book which he photographed in a church hall in his native York, England.

Bovan also kept sourcing and manufacturing as local as possible: his denim came from Wales, and his cable-knit sweaters were hand-made by the neighbors around the corner from his York home. As usual, he did all of the screenprinting and dyeing in-house. Even the models, he’s proud to say, were local — from Manchester, Sheffield and Leeds.

He spun old into new, using deadstock fabrics, including merino wool “fur,” and sustainable Swarovski sequins for his lavish, and wacky, under-the-sea creations. The pandemic, Bovan said, made him ask even more questions about where his fabrics and materials come from, and why.

His inspiration was a dream of drowning, and the looks were — as always — maximalist, showy and conceptual — giant glistening sequins crushed and molded into hoods, skirts and boots; multicolored knits glistening with crystalline ropes like seaweed, and a fuzzy strapless dress that shone like a pearl in the maelstrom of color and texture.

Lord Nelson-style coats looked as if they’d been through swashbuckling swordplay, what with their raggedy edges and sliced-off shoulders while long knitted dresses were slashed and splashed with color. This collection has never been for the faint of heart — there’s a more commercial offer online — but it’s always an adventure to watch Bovan’s imagination in motion.

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