For his second effort at Blumarine, creative director Nicola Brognano resurrected the early 2000s camp aesthetic that the designer, who just turned 30, witnessed as a little kid. Indeed, his collection brought to mind Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie in “The Simple Life,” a reality show set in a ranch in Arkansas that had them donning slinky satin skirts and fur-trimmed cardigans, their bellies exposed.
The look: Brognano dialed down the glitz from his first outing, throwing in some more everyday options. The razzmatazz of rhinestone-encrusted, nude-look dresses and low-rise flared pants with cascading chains was still there for youngsters emulating Hilton, now 40 and engaged, as a daring style icon.
Quote of note: “I wanted to telegraph the eccentricity and joie de vivre of the Aughts, touching lightly the ‘trash’ aesthetics of that period, which I’m fond of remembering and not afraid of,” Brognano said.
Standout pieces: A rib knit miniskirt and cardigan combo layered under an oversize cable-knit cardigan with a fake fur shawl collar; an edgy spaghetti rib-knit dress with a butterfly-shaped bodice; slipdresses trimmed with lace in floral shapes offered in plenty of deep colors such as eggplant purple and ruby red; floor-length sinuous evening gowns with macramé roses climbing over the body.
Takeaway: Amid such an overwhelmingly flamboyant effort, one was left wondering who this collection was designed for. There may be nostalgic Millennials excited about rebooting their teenage looks, but overall the lineup missed the opportunity to pay homage to the brand’s 40-year rich heritage.