Italian designer Danilo Paura’s young tribe is restless and eager to return to art spaces. In a video that held the record for fastest presentation of the season so far (a 65-second clip is more a trailer than a short film) a bunch of kids in loose logo hoodies, tie-dye pants, colorful patchwork knitwear and oversize pin-striped suits eluded home confinement to rush into the streets and take over a plaster cast gallery.
To restate the appropriation of the location, they planted a banner with the words “Galleria Paura,” unveiling the name the designer gave to the collection. Yet the moniker felt too big for the concise showcase Paura put together.
Even if the lineup respected the designer’s penchant for mixing streetwear and relaxed tailoring as well as his signature youthful approach to fashion, the link with art was just hinted at — and in a quite literal way given the stylized representations of Riace bronzes and other sculptures of mythological creatures popping up on camel varsity bomber jackets.
“Art never closes” cited the final scene of the video, but art takes time, too, and Paura’s oeuvre this season felt like a work in progress.