On his birthday, Gabriele Colangelo opened his Milan headquarters for private appointments. Getting a closer look at his chic, crafty fall collection — and all the intricate techniques he deployed to elevate his lean silhouettes — did even more justice to his work than the emotional video starring Malgosia Bela. This season, Colangelo twisted and thermally fixed fabrics for textured surfaces evoking natural elements on the minimal range.
The look: Polished tailoring with a twist — literally. Twists, braids, long tassels and geometric cutouts are part of Colangelo’s vocabulary and these added dynamism to precise shapes. Soutache-embroidered embellishments and vibrant shades of blue and apricot made his aesthetic resonate louder.
Quote of note: “In twisting fabrics, I was inspired by the work of Jorge Eduardo Eielson, a contemporary artist who created similar movements on canvas, making flat surfaces three-dimensional,” said Colangelo.
Standout pieces: A camel double cashmere and wool coat embellished with a soutache-embroidered, scalloped panel. The same motif was introduced in cutout shirts, straight pants and pleated dresses. In addition, a lavender pleated silk blouse and matching skirt that had a sculptural flavor; a cobalt blue, double wool jacket with vertical bands in crushed velvet, and a pleated devoré satin slipdress with ombré overprinted motifs.
The takeaway: Reflecting his discreet and gentle manners, Colangelo’s fashion aren’t flashy, but command attention for quality, craftsmanship and interesting experimentations that never compromise wearability.