Iceberg’s creative director James Long characterized his style as always having had “a kind of informal luxury edge.”
For his fall 2021 collection for men and women he mixed “the London eccentricity and angst of the 1990s Brit Pop, the English subculture, underground rap and acid rock scenes” with Italian lifestyle. “This makes more sense than ever at the moment,” according to Long, who has been spending much more time in Italy, given the travel restrictions. One example was a sleek camel coat worn over a casual hoody and drawstring pants.
The collection had an athleisure wear vibe, but there were also wool check tailored pantsuits with a late 1990s feel that seemed current again. For women, Long swapped loose pants with a knee-length skirt. That decade’s rap culture was referred via utilitarian closures and zips.
The color palette swung from muted primrose, egg-shell and grays to acid pink. The silhouettes were loose and the quilting on coats had a 3D effect. Long spelled out “Fresh” on the front of sweaters, and indeed the collection did look fresh and young.
Nodding to Iceberg’s storied links to pop culture, Peanuts characters Snoopy and Woodstock added a fun touch to ribbed-collared and oversize sweaters. “I went for the most obvious cartoon,” said Long. The designer knows knitwear has long been a core category for Iceberg and he admitted he and his team “fell back on our favorite things, showing them in a different way.”