There was a thin line running between the concepts of bourgeois and boudoir in the sensual collection Alessandro Dell’Acqua presented for fall.
The look: It was a refreshing exercise, in which Dell’Acqua addressed the desire of returning to dress up without ignoring the sense of comfort that became a primary need over the past year.
Quote of note: “Precisely due to these forcedly chaste times, I wanted to make a collection that is not chaste at all,” said Dell’Acqua during a walk-through. As revealed by his moodboard, he was encouraged in the process by the voyeuristic approach and erotic subjects portrayed in the Polaroid images by architect, designer and photographer Carlo Mollino.
Standout pieces: He balanced outdoor and indoor, subtle eroticism and discretion, hiding silk and lace lingerie under charming fringed caban jackets with shearling collars and soft, oversize mohair sweaters. Lace underwear peeked under the extra-long fringes of dresses and skirts and from the cutouts of transparent chiffon frocks, while wool bodysuits revealed plunging necklines. Sixties-flavored looks had shrunken proportions and short hems. Leopard prints, see-through hand-made constructions and flashy crystals bedecking collars and sleeve rims added to the cheeky allure. Tartan wool shirts and signature pencil skirts also got a feminine upgrade when rendered in mint and lilac, sliced in deep side slits and embellished with crystals. The designer also gave men their share of revealing skin via laced crop tops and shirts in pastel yellow and classic black, worn under knits and tartan coats.
Takeaway: In the mood for transgression, the designer imagined a wardrobe for women breaking restrictions and curfews and that “want to be seen” again. And what’s more rebellious than ditching sweatpants and dusting off flirty ways these days?