Strong women from different decades, from Claude Cahun and Grace Jones to Annie Lennox and Sinead O’Connor, served as inspiration for the sense of strength and empowerment that Sportmax fashion director Grazia Malagoli infused in her fall collection. Looking at the elongated shapes of classic statues, she worked with long, lean silhouettes in a collection that combined impeccable tailoring with intentionally imperfect items.
The look: Revisited 1990s minimalism with an arty twist.
Quote of note: “We played around with the idea of totem that has always defined the world of sculptures across different epochs. We looked at different eras, from the vitality of the ’20s to the minimalism of the ’90s, in order to offer a contemporary image,” Malagoli said. “To deliver that type of sculptural silhouette, we kept shapes lean, we worked with monochromatic looks, we put the focus on the shoulders and we gave fluidity to the floor-length bottoms featuring flared cuts.”
Standout pieces: Minimalistic tailoring; draped jersey dresses with waist bands; fluid tie-dye or see-through mohair knitted fluid frocks; leggings with small slits; rhinestone mesh tops; fringed vests; knitted sets with corsetry details; maxi taffeta gathered gowns.
The takeaway: Nineties minimalism matched the experimental authentic spirit of the brand in a collection that was intriguing yet easy-to-approach.