Vivetta Ponti took a psychedelic turn this fall, casting a refreshing light on her signature sugar-coated aesthetics. She kept things youthful and feminine as usual, but traded her delicate embroideries with flashy flower prints, contrasted maxi proportions with micro details and added a surrealist touch here and there.

The look: A 1960s doll with a quirky personality. The colorful prints and tulle ruffles was wisely balanced by minimal, monochrome looks and mannish tailoring with playful sailor collars. Quirkiness was enhanced via trompe l’oeil knitted dresses as well as Wednesday Addams-style braids hanging from shirts.

Quote of note: “The starting point was a flower print I designed. It was inspired by an artwork named ‘Esplosione di un fiore energetico,’ or ‘Explosion of an energetic flower,’ which is a title I really liked. And I customized the graphic distorting it to create an optical illusion,” Ponti said.

Standout pieces: Outerwear shone bright thanks to padded options in psychedelic floral motifs, an eco-fur with flower intarsia and a highly Instagrammable pink coat covered in tulle ruffles forming a gigantic heart motif. Maxi, A-line sleeveless dresses with micro pockets were worn over Lurex shirts while ruched baby-dolls in poplin came in ankle-length versions.

The takeaway: In daring to point in a different direction, Ponti found a more restrained yet convincing formula to express her whimsical world of naïf and vintage references.

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