“For the past three years as a small brand based in Brooklyn, N.Y., we’ve been very focused on making daywear. I wanted to perfect the pant, blazer, suit — some sort of a uniform that becomes reality for women…” designer Peter Do explained via Zoom. “Growing up in Vietnam with very little, everything you own has to do more for you and have a certain function.…That mind-set has carried through to this season so far.”

Sharp tailoring, transformative details and a sharp point of view in daywear have made Do a one to watch since his launch in 2018. For fall, Do was reminiscing of New York at night — nostalgic moments of going out, dancing with friends, etc. “I felt like it was time to allow myself to design beautiful things you wear at night,” he remarked. “Just a love letter to New York by night.

The look: A collection of 46 looks with New York’s edgy, gritty, glamorous and cool nightlife spirit, rooted in Do’s excellent tailoring and knack for transformative, playful elements.

Quote of note: “We were looking a lot at elements, I was thinking about people who go out wearing feathers, silver or full-leather looks. There’s something brave, in a sense, and a certain level of fearlessness of the woman who wears head-to-toe silver,” Do remarked over Zoom, referring to his silver leather jacket, fringed fashions and feather corsage accents. “I wanted the Peter Do woman to be brave and seen.”

Key pieces: Black-tie suiting with flame-shaped lace interjected at the hem — “see-through so you could see the shoe”; hybrid blazers, ribbed knits and coats with smart transformative details that played on volume and length; sharp, cropped blazers — which were cut in half during fittings, their bottom half used to become new suiting skirts; sexy, sleek gowns. Also, architectural Lucite and metal-heeled pumps, designed to exaggerate the idea of glamour (Do’s shoes were mentioned as about a third of his business).

The takeaway: “I really want the clothes to feel like you can play with them, that they can do so much more for you to wear over and over again. And you want to, because you can find new ways to wear them,” Do said. Fall’s interpretation of these signature, recurring themes — specifically the ability to conceal, reveal or adapt the garments, “to the certain level of glamour you need depending on the occasion” — melded with eccentric details within his signature minimalist and darkly glamorous offerings felt just right.

 

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