To do his collection justice, designer Ryota Iwai wanted show the clothes in motion clearly, but not from the “one dimensional” perspective of a runway. Instead, he captured his coed cast moving on and off the set, looking at ease in the kind of elevated staples he favors.
The look: A graceful wardrobe of streamlined and straightforward silhouettes relying on soft tailoring, layers of lush textures and high-quality natural materials. A palette of elegant neutrals ranging from cream to charcoal, with the occasional russet, blue or yellow thrown in, provide visual contrast to boxy cuts skewing toward oversize.
Quote of note: “With our current global shared circumstance, I thought it necessary to have clothing that is quiet but uplifting,” Iwai said. “The world has had a chance to slow down and reevaluate the necessities in life. I wanted give people a sense of healing and calm; to express this feeling of rest and taking a break, something I certainly needed at the time.”
Standout pieces: A short denim jacket with discreet gathers at the waist; a cream-colored hooded and quilted puffer coat; a marled alpaca cable knit that looked like a starry night, and roomy overcoats that looked minimal without ever feeling austere, in particular the one in patterned melton.
Takeaway: In a season where many are hunkering down on believable shapes and reassuring textures, Auralee stood out for how deftly Iwai works that particular angle.