“The beads are back,” Kevin Germanier teased on Instagram ahead of his fall collection. At his studio, the Swiss designer was proud to showcase one of the season’s achievements, a supple panel that incorporated a profusion of minute multicolored pearls. It had taken seven seasons to develop and it wasn’t just a matter of style. This new technique allowed him to bring retail prices down by a sizable percentage.
After spending so much time thinking about beads, it was no surprise they found their way everywhere. Some came as decorations running along the shoulders of mesh tops, larger ones were strung into colorful chunky straps for upcycled handbags, and even the bobbly thick-gauge garter stitches nodded to the origins of the brand.
The look: Everyday OTT, now also for men, with basics such as denim, blazers, tank tops and skirt suits revisited in vibrant colors, from eye-popping gradients and marabout trims to sequins and panels of multicolored beads.
Quote of note: “I wanted to highlight the craftsmanship of everyone involved in the brand, from the technique I developed to create pearl panels and marabout cast-offs sourced at London feather specialists Jaffe, to the knitwear made by my grandmother and her knitting circle,” he said in his Paris atelier. “It’s more important than ever to develop and assert your brand DNA.”
Standout pieces: Smart knit cardigans and skirts in red-to-aqua gradients inspired by early graphic software; bedazzled denim; jackets and trousers with pearl appliqué panels following anatomic muscle placement, for him and her; one-size-fits-most tops cut from bi-directional pleated regenerated polyester.
Takeaway: It’s easy to pigeonhole Germanier in the outrageous glam category, but this daywear approach, in continuation of his Essentiels line of foil-painted separates launched last summer, would sure make office life more fun.