Isabel Marant’s Parisian girl has lost none of her cool — in both style and temperament. The runway was an empty parking garage — an impressive, spiraling monument of brutalist architecture — and models charged down with confidence, strutting bold, Marant shoulders and chunky heeled boots with sharp toes to a fast-paced techno track tempered by guitar twangs.
For fall, the designer offered a textured lineup, amping up the bohemian bent with flowing dresses and fanciful cropped vests in bouclé wool embellished with plump tassels or coated in sequins. Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix were cited in the show notes, a presence felt in the electrifying mix of loose blouses, striking embroidered motifs, studded belts and paisleys — silhouettes reined in effectively at the waist.
“The idea was to rework the essentials that I’ve always loved — guipure lace, embroidery, prints, androgynous style — but to take it toward something much more modern, and with a bit of a she-hero attitude, the girl who’s sure of herself,” said the designer, speaking from a bustling showroom in Paris.
A bit of an intergalactic cowboy, too, she suggested, nodding to the lineup’s futuristic side — that silvery sheen worked into prairie dresses; those slick, vinyl numbers. A bright red dress in the lightweight, glossy material molded to the body, a row of buttons running cleavage to navel while shimmery, blue trousers were cut straight.
Pants were trimmer this season — she is known to favor pleats and carrot cuts — marking a sportier direction also seen in the short puffer coats and color patches applied to thick, ribbed sweaters, recalling her signature windbreakers. Also, a fitted jersey shirt with white stitching felt fresh for the label, better known for folds and pleats. Not that those were neglected — a lightweight suede was worked into handsome shirts that folded and snapped into different shapes.
“There’s a hint of folk, but it’s really a mix of a lot of different ideas transposed on a contemporary silhouette — ideas that are completely different within the same collection and show how they work well together,” said Marant.
Energetic, coherent and sensual, the collection was Marant through and through — sure to be a crowd-pleaser.