Georg Lux glammed it up for fall with a Leonard collection dubbed “After Midnight.” This was his second lineup since joining the label half a year ago, and he doubled down on the house style — the prints! — while introducing fresh extravagance with some shimmery new luxury fabrics like silky jacquards infused with Lurex, a leopard-patterned devoré in hot pink and a silver-coated leather.
The look: Sultry eveningwear with a whiff of old Hollywood glamour.
Quote of note: “It’s really a collection that draws on the house’s character, the technical expertis, and beautiful materials, beyond silk jersey, which remains our trademark fabric — here we really sought to work with exceptional materials,” Lux said.
Key pieces: A three-quarter-length leather coat with silver sleeves and covered with ostrich feathers, lined with a pastel Art Deco house print; a long, V-neck dress, as well as a blouse, made of a fuchsia leopard pattern delineated in velvet devoré; a pleated silk satin dress, its Art Deco print rendered in a 1970s palette of pink, gold and brown, and a silk moiré cape dress carrying a colorful broad-stroked, floral.
Takeaway: With the 1970s in mind, and the Claude Chabrol film “Folies Bourgeoises,” Lux riffed on that era’s playful charm, prepping the current Leonard woman for a glamorous night out on the town with pleated dresses and shimmery trousers. The house’s challenge is to update a sumptuous past, a tall order that has become more complex in a pandemic. All the more reason to stick with straight-forward styles. Here, the simpler efforts were the most effective — that silky, satin dress in a pastel, Art Deco print had timeless appeal.