What to wear once all this is over? The first pajama in Lutz Huelle’s lineup felt like it was picking up where he left off last season but make no mistake, this time his main idea was to be ready to get back into the swing of pre-pandemic life at the drop of a mask. “I was sitting on my bed and for the first time, I asked myself what we really want to wear, instead of starting with what I find interesting visually,” he said. His conclusion was that right now, dressing should be about pleasure, not conceptual considerations, which is exactly what he delivered in this collection titled “Le Plaisir.”
The look: Easy-to-maintain clothes that can rise to any occasion, whether that’s emerging into the world again with best foot forward or staying in a while longer without giving in to the sirens of sweatpants.
Quote of note: “There are so many things that are complicated right now. Fashion and our wardrobe can’t be one of them,” he said from his Parisian studio. “I wanted pieces that had the ease of sportswear because dressing shouldn’t require a second thought. Clothes should be no-brainers.” Like that Norwegian-style sweater he was sporting on the Zoom call, one of the season’s styles.
Standout pieces: A Norwegian sweater-blouson hybrid; a long-sleeve, long T-shirt dress that ended with a swathe of taffeta that looked like a party skirt when worn under a coat; all the denim, jackets and cropped jeans with ankle tabs included. Another noteworthy point was his choice of materials: from the taffeta and silk-acetate blends to the wools and denim, he said everything could be thrown into a washing machine.
Takeaway: Although this was one of Huelle’s least conceptual collections, his knack for playing with construction and proportions gives this highly wearable proposition plenty of lasting power.