It seems that Martin Grant took a cue from Henry Ford’s famous dictum this season: his tailoring was available in any color, as long as it’s black.
“I haven’t used this much black for a long time,” the designer admitted. Indeed, with so much uncertainty swirling around, why not keep it simple?
His signature outerwear — snappy peacoats and smartly tailored knee-length coats worn by everyone from Sigourney Weaver to Meghan Markle — all came in the same classic wool fabric, with camel-colored topstitching providing a graphic contrast.
“It was like getting back to a skeleton or a sketch of each thing,” Grant remarked. He kept the theme going for daywear, which included a glossy black lambskin skirt and an effortlessly chic belted black cotton dress — wardrobe essentials without a sell-by date.
For evening, Grant went all-out in the opposite direction. Bouffant-sleeved blouses, harem pants and a swishy trapeze dress came in metallic silk chiffons in elevated jewel tones, set off with gilded chainmail necklaces from his own archives.
An abstract leopard pattern in gold lurex appeared on everything from a rich quilted brocade evening jacket to a delicate silk chiffon blouse. But the star of the show was a one-shouldered cocktail dress with sculptural folds made of a couture-grade metallic satin — talk about dressing like a gold statuette.
“I wanted something glam, a little more mysterious. I think people are getting ready to get dressed up again,” Grant reasoned. In the meantime, covering all bases was probably a wise move. Wear the black coat now, and save the glad rags for later.