For her fall Miu Miu film, Miuccia Prada used the alpine landscape of the Dolomites as a backdrop for a mountain adventure about women who brave the elements in puffer pants and bikinis — and look cute doing it.
Mountains are the designer’s happy place. “Nature is healing to me personally,” she said during a Zoom press conference, holding forth about the learning curve she had to climb to bring not only her collection but a story to screen. “Basically, it’s a new job for us — people in fashion,” she said of also thinking like a film director.
Her approach? A combination woman-conquers-nature narrative and runway-through-the-woods fashion show. Using the outdoors as their respite, Prada’s girl gang took to the snowy peaks in sorbet-colored outerwear, whimsical craftsy knits and silk underthings.
There was a lot of eye candy to buy or inspire — including a fab bubblegum-pink puffer bodysuit over navy puffer pants ski bunny look; a skater dress that was camel sweater knit on top and peach quilted puffer skirt on the bottom; a colorful crochet bikini top, arm warmer, miniskirt and leggings set; parkas with granny square crochet details, candy-striped scarves and fuzzy mukluks. Also on the accessories front, crochet bonnets with button-on face masks would have been clutch during this pandemic winter.
“Daring but possible” is how the designer described the clothes, mentioning the spirit of women who dare to be fashionable whatever life throws them, and using skiing in a bikini as one example. (Regrettably, I wasn’t able to get in a follow-up question asking if Mrs. Prada herself has skied in a bikini…but I could see it!)
With the sportswear, Prada layered in softer lingerie-inspired pieces, including some of the loveliest satin slipdresses in a season full of them, bordered in crystals, with a 1920s flair, and a few prickly studs on the dainty shoulder straps, as well as crochet-embellished satin negligee tops that are sure to be influential. Adding street cred was a dramatic wool cape dusted with pearls, glittery sheer knits and cool knit-sherpa combination vests.
Some of the models did look at bit cold in their slips trudging through the snow on the wood plank runway under the pines, but there was something charming to the defiance of dressing for the weather — or not — in that ‘Mama’s not gonna tell me what to do’ way.
When the adventure culminated in a goddess fire circle, the message was clear: we are women, hear us roar — and let us dress as we please. Miuccia Prada has always been the goddess of that.