Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter streamlined their Nina Ricci collection for fall, reducing the number of looks by 30 percent and opting for a graphic runway backdrop for their video presentation.
The look: A mix of vintage-inspired tailoring and sportswear staples in colorful fabrics, including garment-dyed nylons and technical wools in tropical shades. In the absence of decorative touches, traditional men’s wear patterns like houndstooth, chevron and Prince of Wales checks were used to add depth.
Quote of note: “Everybody’s looking at a screen, so we wanted to also paint with textures to give it like a VR, almost 3D feel,” Botter said. The collection is being repositioned to make it more accessible, with prices reduced on average by 20 percent. “It’s almost like how Nina Ricci started: it was really democratic. And if I look at our generation now, I want to see them also wear the garments,” he explained.
Standout pieces: Jackets and outerwear are this label’s strong point. Duffle coats featured oversize removable scarves, while windbreakers came with gently curved backs, in a nod to Ricci’s couture heritage. There were playful touches, too, like the shaggy fur collar on a weathered pink nylon parka, and a tent-like duvet swing coat.
Takeaway: With its quirky colors and retro references, the collection felt a little grownup for Millennials, yet too casual for the boardroom. Without reneging their experimental streak, the designers would do well to focus on their formidable tailoring skills — after all, not everyone can do a perfect jacket.