Alejandro Gómez Palomo offered up his first full coed collection for fall, nodding to the genderless movement with a lineup full of quirky period shapes with references to the hippie movement. Designed to be less theatrical and more wearable than collections past, he worked with fabrics like printed cotton poplin and pastel brocades, giving the lineup a fresher touch.

The look: Full-flowing pants fronted with codpiece details and corsets transformed into vests that revealed the torso. These mingled with cloth caps, floaty dresses with diamond motifs, and tailored silhouettes with vintage details like long, pointy collars. With its pastel colors, floral prints and gingham checks, Palomo created a distinctive mix of the 1970s and the baroque.

Quote of note: “This collection is a close conversation with our consumer. I had forgotten a little bit about the people who were making the brand a reality,” Palomo said via Zoom. “We’ve always been very theatrical, and we wanted to bring it back to reality.”

Standout pieces: A pale yellow brocade suit with a corset jacket; a pajama combo in pale blue with black contrast piping; a lace shorts suit with giant shoulder flaps.

Takeaway: Alejandro Gómez Palomo’s mastery of camp — and technique — came to the fore in a whimsical collection that was full of charm and quirky detail.

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