In Uma Wang’s “Subconscious Museum” collection for fall, familiar references blur in the memory and take on abstract new forms.

The look: Wang played with proportion, exaggerating jacket shapes, sleeve lengths and pant widths so they looked to be borrowed or handed down from a beloved elder brother. She played with fabric techniques to give the designs a lived-in feel and mixed utilitarian and men’s wear references with period styles like full, floor-length skirts and high-necked blouses, as well as prints featuring playing card motifs.

Quote of note: “This collection is all about a dream. It is full of elements that reflect the story of this dream, a bit blurred, settled in an undistinguished place, with references that look to the past and the present,” Wang told WWD in a written statement.

Standout pieces: A trenchcoat in a specially treated, textured velvet that played with the dappled light; rough-hewn hemp pieces that were dyed to look slightly crumpled; a murky bright pink double-breasted jacket with voluminous double sleeves, worn over a matching floor-length skirt; the cropped pants and offset jackets in men’s wear stripes.

Takeaway: The collection was like that nostalgic feeling of stumbling across a treasure chest of well-worn, pre-loved clothes in the attic of an old house and wondering about the characters that wore them, evoking a simultaneous sense of mystery and comfort. While it could have been costume-y, her plays on fabric use and quirky cuts gave the collection a sense of contemporary poetry, nodding to the past but resolutely of the present.

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