Having worked under Jean Paul Gaultier and after showing in Milan for several seasons, Atsushi Nakashima seemed to go back to his roots for fall, incorporating Asian inspirations into the prints, silhouettes, and color palette of his latest offering.
The look: The designer turned out loose-fitting, softly tailored coats, satin trousers and notch-collared shirts in rich jewel tones and nature-themed prints. He also mixed high and low styles, pairing sweatshirts with tea-length skirts or crisp, straight-legged trousers.
Standout pieces: Flight jackets have become ubiquitous from runways to high streets, but Nakashima’s version was outsized and printed with a dreamy forest sunset scene or the cool tones of a misty mountain. Elements of kimonos were also sprinkled into a cross-front cape and a ruffled wrap dress in mixed florals, bright red and deep navy and green.
Takeaway: The collection was both riskier and more polished than some of Nakashima’s earlier offerings, suggesting a growing confidence. Skillful draping, beautifully rendered prints and colors, and the combination of contrasting elements resulted in an elegant take on easy shapes.