Like many designers over the past year, Shin Mikage drew on her experiences during the coronavirus pandemic to inform her fall collection. She called the offering “The Process,” because she said she sees the current moment as something that is fluid and changing, and which will give birth to something new.

The look: Mikage’s genderless line featured men’s wear-inspired suiting and feminine pleated skirts and gathered-sleeve blouses, as well as androgynous outerwear with exaggerated shoulders. Her silhouettes were easy and flowing, with asymmetric detailing adding points of interest.

Standout pieces: A series of looks including ankle-length dresses with attached frills, a cross-front blouse and a simple button-down shirt featured an allover print of phrases from philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche’s memoirs. Chunky textured knits had fringed detailing and comfy, oversize shapes.

Quote of note: “This collection expresses the chaos of the turning point and the sense of something new being born, using various art and literature related to change and process as hints,” Shin wrote in her show notes.

Takeaway: It was a strong showing from a new brand participating in Tokyo Fashion Week for the first time. Mikage’s multicultural background — she was born to a South Korean mother and Japanese father, and studied in New York — appears to have given her a modern worldview that is often lacking within smaller brands.

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