Guests to Kei Ninomiya’s fall show were greeted by vases of white lilies propped on the floor between the seats, their perfume wafting through the hall in the Comme des Garçons Tokyo headquarters. But their soft petals and pure white color proved to be in contrast to the collection.

Ninomiya said he took his inspiration from materials this season, deciding to challenge himself to see what he could do with metals. He used fiber-thin wires of mainly stainless steel, manipulating them to the point where they often appeared to be a part of the delicate, sheer fabrics they were attached to. On the bodices of minidresses, tops and leather jackets the wires stuck out like menacing spikes, although the designer said after the show that the end of each one is treated to make it painless to touch. On a pair of sculptural, floor-length dresses, the wires were joined to form a cage-like netting effect.

Other uses of metals included intricate ruffles of zippers, whose volume echoed layers of blue organza on an overcoat and chunky black cable knits. Strips of a silver, foil-like material were carefully arranged to give volume and shape to a zip-front dress and high-neck top. The show closed with a trio of standout looks in shimmering textures: a bulky jacket and straight skirt that looked like disco balls and a pair of eye-catching silver frocks covered in what appeared to be delicate metallic flower buds at various stages of blooming.

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