Since the day he created his first collection, Greg Lauren pushed the sustainability message. And his fall 2022 offering is no exception.
The designer mined fabric remnants from past seasons as well as his stock of vintage military fabrics to produce a collection that celebrated the trend toward dress-up — but in a distinctly Greg Lauren way.
“I knew I wanted to tell a story,” the designer said in a preview over Zoom from his Los Angeles showroom. And that story revolves around “effortless, relaxed elegance and a return to formalwear.”
Lauren took discarded remnants from past seasons and reimagined them in a variety of looks, ranging from red velvet tails paired with black “scrapwork” tuxedo lounge pants to other versions of the formalwear standby made from overdyed vintage overalls or antique blankets.
“I absolutely love exploring tailoring — I respect the technique,” Lauren added. But unlike most traditional clothing looks, Lauren created unconstructed pieces that are comfortable and easy to wear.
Some of the most interesting pieces included a chiffon dress shirt that flowed down below the knee that he paired with a velvet tuxedo jacket and black nylon wide-leg lounge pants with a drawstring closure at the ankle. Those lounge pants were also offered in a cargo version.
“My goal is to offer an exercise in restraint and let the forms and textures be embedded in the DNA of the clothing,” he said.
Another eye-catching piece was a pink wool top coat, blazer and vest paired with matching trousers that Lauren described as a “watercolor hue.” A dinner jacket made from vintage painters’ pants that were dyed in-house also offered an interesting alternative to formalwear.
The collection offered a variety of denim fabrics used in overcoats, patchwork sweaters and jeans, including a new 34-inch lounge pant that Lauren fashioned from vintage cloth. He turned to vintage Army and Navy fabrics for overcoats and shirts.
And what would a Greg Lauren collection be without a poncho? “I love ponchos,” he said with a smile. “They have the ability to be so elegant.” This season, he created one from vintage denim overall fabrics with a blue-and-white striped linen lining and velvet wide-leg cargo pants.
Lauren also used some leftover buffalo plaid — what he deems “a classic fall menswear fabric” — for a coat that he showed with an elongated chambray work shirt and canvas cargos.
He continued his collaboration with Gee’s Bend, the Black Alabama quilters with whom he created some one-of-a-kind pieces that were sold in an installation in Bergdorf Goodman last fall. This time around, he commissioned the group to create pieces that could be commercially produced and offered to a larger range of retailers. The result was a hand-dyed indigo quilt/fishtail artist coat and another fishtail parka in a striking black and white mosaic.
For fall, Lauren proved once again his ability to create a chic bohemian luxury world with a continental sensibility — all using upcycled materials.