London-based Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto’s first show in Milan for JordanLuca was a hot ticket, attracting the press and buyers that matter. “It is our first season in Milan, and the more we get back to physical shows, the more we get in touch with physicality,” Bowen said about their extremely tactile collection.
There was plenty of real estate for unusual textures thanks to an extremely elongated silhouette: sweaters with extended sleeves, gloves that stretched far beyond fingertips and flared pants that swept the floor.
Quilted jackets and oversize outerwear, including a statement fluffy fur, also enhanced the tactile feel of this cohesive collection. The designers employed mohair, boiled wool and recycled cashmere to keep things soft — except for the spiky studs that punctuated some looks, heightening the punkish vibe of the lineup.
As Sinéad O’Connor’s voice in the song “Troy” reached a crescendo, the dark palette yielded to lilac, sky blue and chartreuse for a suit with a matching kilt, which hit the show’s highest notes.