Luca Magliano’s latest collection brought to mind off-duty musicians, servicemen and assorted hipsters strolling around the East Village in the late 1980s or early 1990s.
The slouchy looks had an offhand, grunge feel, though they were meticulously put together to capture each character: weathered saxophone player in a red Lurex shirt and pajama-like trousers; dive-bar regular in sunglasses and a black hoodie splashed with retro logos, and Johnny Depp wannabe in a cropped biker jacket, plaid shirt and penny loafers.
Models strolled through a few rooms: circling a brass double bed, rounding two men armwrestling at a restaurant table, or passing two bartenders swapping spit. It gave the show a frisson of intimacy, and suggested being up all night to get lucky.
Not that these were clothes for seduction, save for the pink off-the-shoulder sweater and pink tweed shorts that winked to Rue Cambon, and might attract some women to the brand.
Most items looked lived-in, especially the hefty overcoats, slouchy blazers and meaty cardigans and a sweatshirt emblazoned with Sylvester and Tweety generated a smile.