Onye Anuna chose to home in on tailoring this season with “Afro-contemporary” label Gravalot. He offered a pared-back lineup merging sartorial silhouettes, workwear influences and one-off suiting crafted from striped deadstock fabrics sourced largely in Nigeria and Turkey.
“The high-end tailored items point to the direction we’re going,” Anuna said during a preview. These included a red wool combo that intentionally stood out as a touch of optimism in the collection, dubbed “Heavy Weather” to sum up the darkness of the times, and a black jacket with a hint of sparkle in its threads.
Chunky Herringbone and “underappreciated fabrics” like cotton drill gave a hardy edge to the designs, and played into the simplicity of his silhouettes.
Head coverings — a house signature that Anuna said nods to the house’s African heritage — topped several looks, protecting the wearer from the elements — and acting as a style differentiator in the process.