For his third offering for China-based trousers specialist Joeone, artistic director Louis Gabriel Nouchi tapped into the sartorial traditions of the sixth-century Tang dynasty, distilling details and motifs across a contemporary man’s wardrobe.
Owing to the brand’s specialty, the show opened with silhouettes featuring fitted tops and generously proportioned trousers before jackets and coats were layered on.
Historical elements were lightly delivered as high-crossed collars on sweaters; draped wide-legged trousers, or as jackets tied on the side with fabric belts. Patterns for prints and knits nodded to the era’s ceramic designs, be it vines or more abstract shapes. The abundance of silks and wools was a way of sourcing more local materials for the Chinese brand, according to Nouchi.
“It’s also about the attitude that these [period] garments brought,” said Nouchi, pointing out how he’d angled pockets to mimic the way officials would slide their hands into sleeves. More daring options played to the designer’s proclivities for his own label with, say, leather trousers with side tie closures that left an opening at the hip.
Other quirky notes included silk knot closures or sleeves that trailed on the floor, giving a hanfu vibe to these looks. Balanced out with modern-day details like cargo trousers or cargo vests, it made for an interesting twist on what heritage-inspired men’s wear can mean.