Colm Dillane of KidSuper was psyched to stage his first runway show in Paris this season. He had just won LVMH’s Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize — and its 150,000 euros — and was ready to step up from the presentations he had held there in the past.
But COVID-19 had other plans.
So instead of the overseas trek, the designer decided to create a short film in New York that featured everyone from his barber to rapper Joey Badass, singers Princess Nokia and Kenneth Cash and Cleveland Browns defensive end Myles Garrett.
The cast in the film — “The Misadventures of KidSuper: Only Those Who Want to Be Forgotten Give Up” — also had a surprise cameo by Marc Jacobs. The two became friends as a result of the yearlong mentorship offered to the LVMH Prize winners, and when asked to be part of the film, Jacobs was all in. “He’s very supportive of our vision,” Dillane told WWD during a preview in what he refers to as “HQ 2.0,” his new studio and soon-to-be retail store, recording studio and soccer field in Williamsburg.
Highlights for fall included the outerwear, such as a “kissing puffer” that buttons up into the shape of a mouth, and a patchwork version in Prince of Wales plaid — leftover fabric scraps from suits he had created last season — blended with more puffer-appropriate materials. Another puffer style featured an image borrowed from a painting by Dillane that was sold recently at Sotheby’s.
The designer’s craftsmanship was seen in embroideries splashed across pieces that included a camelhair coat with the stitching of a face in red that mimicked a line drawing. There was a varsity jacket emblazoned with the illustration of a chess player on the back, and both long and short leather coats with similar playful embellishments.
Tailoring included a double-breasted, peak-lapel suit with a graphic on the chest, as well as another with a “to-do list” printed on it from the designer’s childhood. A collaboration with Alice + Olivia resulted in an array of colorful prom dresses.
KidSuper is clearly in his own universe but Dillane is carving out a niche for the young and the young at heart.