Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire had travel in mind this season — not a destination but the mere act.
“Dressing up is a bit like traveling, because you go somewhere or to someone, or you have a destination in mind, so we wanted to express the idea of movement,” he said after the show. “Hands-free, as always,” added Tran, pointing out the profusion of accessories and pockets that peppered the looks.
Handsome types of all genders appeared alone or in small groups, as a monumental imaginary landscape by stage director Philippe Quesne unfurled behind them. What the pair was going for in these silhouettes was, as ever, a sense of effortlessness, whether in choosing what to wear or actually spending the day in these familiar layers of softly tailored jackets, wide cropped trousers, voluminous overcoats and crisp shirting in various lengths.
“I think that we want things that you forget once you have them on,” said Tran, characterizing their design process as “finding sophistication in something rather immediate,” like dressing for the day.
The updates were therefore subtle and, for the Lemaire devotee, would freshen up a look without requiring a complete rethink of one’s wardrobe. Among those were the red over-dyeing process that created gradients due to different materials’ reactions or the marble prints designed with artist Frédérique Pelletier.
At Lemaire, there rarely is the feeling of a seismic shift. But as Tran put it when asked about the recurring models in the lineup, she likened cast and clothes to a family they were growing old with — a moving sentiment, especially these days.