Pierre Mahéo gets a buzz from seeing his designs on people on the street. A recent stroll with his dog around his Saint Germain neighborhood near midnight saw him start chatting with a guy wearing a shearling jacket from a three-year-old collection. That pretty much sums up his philosophy on fashion.
“I stay out of trends, that’s not how I want to build my brand,” he said.
For fall, Mahéo’s starting point was a quote from Lauren Hutton that tied into that ethos: “Fashion is what you’re offered four times a year by designers. And style is what you choose.”
Describing Hutton as “the most French of American women,” he offered a collection that played on the aesthetics of a woman wearing masculine clothing, subtly altering his silhouettes accordingly. This resulted in what he described as a “calmly oversize” aesthetic — his coats, some crafted from soft yet structured recycled wool, were a little on the large side, comfortably enveloping the body.
Monochrome looks — in camel or navy, for example — and layering were key, with scarves made to match the outfits, yarns for knitwear specially dyed to tone in, and over-shirts for that extra layer. For the pants, he played with pleating, offering up a range of shapes in denim, wool and flannel.
After being one of just a handful of labels to stage a runway show last June, Mahéo shared his frustration with not being able to do so again. Even without the show, supply chain difficulties meant that some pieces had not arrived at the showroom in time for shooting.