Chitose Abe returned to her roots for her latest women’s and men’s collections, distilling what she calls the “purest essence” of Sacai. This was manifested in new versions of the label’s signature hybridizations. For women, she converted the linings of jackets into bra-like elements, melding innerwear with outerwear in singular items.
“For women, I took men’s jackets and made them into something resembling lingerie,” Abe said. The technique was applied to everything from blazers to anoraks to faux shearling jackets, representing a new silhouette that was at once unique and also typically Sacai.
Another key piece for women was Abe’s take on a long pencil skirt, which she created by folding a wool skirt accordion style, and then cutting into it like a child would a paper snowflake. The result resembled mesh or macaramé; a new take on an open netting style.
For both men and women, Abe showed suiting that took its inspiration from a tracksuit sensibility. For men, silhouettes were loose to allow freedom of movement, resembling snowboarding outfits in neutrals or bright red and blue checks. For women, blazers were melded with puffer vests, shirts were given asymmetric shapes, and suit jackets became long, handkerchief-hem dresses combined with crisp white shirts.
The latest Sacai collections also included a handful of collaborations. In addition to the newest sneakers designed by Abe for Nike, there were updated versions of iconic Schott Leather biker jackets, which for women had a cinched waist and exaggerated peplum hem, or a cropped shape combined with puffy down sleeves. For men, the jackets were hybridized with a dress coat or given a detachable lining.
Another key collaborator was Japanese artist Madsaki, a longtime friend of Abe’s who lent an original graffiti-style artwork, which appeared on everything from biker and letter jackets to sweaters and pullovers.
“I don’t understand English that well, but I thought this phrase, ‘sheeple, zombies and Kool-Aid’ was very fitting for the times that we live in,” Abe said.