On a trip to Paris last October, Teppei Fujita engaged in one of the city’s favorite pastimes — people watching. Based on the observation that the runways are often divorced from how people dress in real life, he wanted to put his own spin on how people were dressing on the autumnal streets, building a wardrobe with traditional men’s wear fabrics and twisting it with his distinctive hand.
Houndstooth checks and heavy wool yarns provided a backbone for his slouchy, tailored silhouettes, their lining hanging below hemlines, a house signature or revealed in outsized pocket details.
Using such heavy fabrics to create silhouettes hinting at fluidity was a particular challenge, the designer said through an interpreter — and Fujita once more proved his skill with pattern-making through the exercise, creating deconstructed shapes that channeled a louche appeal.
Many of the fabrics were crafted by Japanese manufacturers using recycled wool yarns. “Japan is very late on sustainability subjects compared with other countries,” the designer said. By employing local weavers to create his fabrics, he explained, he made it his mission to prove that Japanese craftsmanship and sustainability could go hand in hand.