Rei Kawakubo’s latest offering for her Comme des Garçons Homme Plus men’s wear line was a mix of rich, weighty textures and warm, contrasting colors. She wrote in her show notes that her inspiration for the season came from nomads.
“Nowadays if you want to know anything, you can get as much information as you want from the internet and it’s an experience. But still I can’t be satisfied,” she wrote. “I yearn after a nomadic life where you can truly live freely by yourself, not flocking together, not belonging anywhere. It is enviable.”
Dressed in colorful separates, cinched top coats and tall hats, Kawakubo’s models looked like they could have stepped from the pages of a modern Lewis Carroll story. She paired loose joggers or wide-legged culottes with new interpretations of morning coats in textured black or layered jacquards in bright, mixed hues. While many silhouettes were easy and relaxed, fitted outerwear provided a defined shape and nonchalant polish.
Kawakubo is known for her ample use of unexpected textiles, and this collection was no exception. Cozy, inviting felts and knits gave a soft touch to tailored pieces, while the addition of ruffles, fringe, metallic jacquards, and quilting added an unexpected, slightly feminine edge to suiting. A series of long, crisp white shirts with asymmetric detailing reinforced the effortless, anti-tailoring vibe.
The designer accessorized the collection with footwear created in collaboration with two very different companies. There were oxfords and Mary Jane-like sandals by British brand George Cox — both reimagined with a thick black sole — as well as distressed leather versions of Nike’s iconic Air Max 97 sneakers.