Umit Benan has a sharp sense of style and knack for conjuring a very specific attitude.
His B+ fall collection centered on “the way Milanese dress usually, but in a more modern way,” he said. It may sound quite nonspecific, but it’s not: at Benan every inch counts, his scissors focused on the little sartorial details one can hardly explain with words but easily spots looking up close.
Crisp beige chino pants came wide-legged with front pleats, tuxedo jackets had a ‘70s flair, with structured shoulders, a nipped waist and a double, detachable shawl collar that added edge and personality; throw-on-and-go woolen blazers boasted round lapels, they looked chic even when the collar accidentally stood up; cashmere maxi coats were almost floor-sweeping, providing men with immediate stature; silk shirts had bibs or little neck scarves that could be tied and knotted in a zillion ways.
Word has it that some of the industry’s heavyweights regularly wear Benan’s made-to-measure creations.
For his ready-to-wear line, he distilled their wardrobe for “casual stuff [done] in a luxurious way.” It included a padded rainproof shirt jacket in which nylon was traded for silk and a regular lining for a cocooning cashmere layer. It appeared exactly as those Milan men on their Vespas would wear on a rainy November day, except for the fabric choice.
Same same, but oh so different.