In November, Brunello Cucinelli presented his first wine, the 2018 vintage of the Rosso del Castello di Solomeo. That experience seeped into Cucinelli’s men’s fall collection which, he said, can change in a season while staying true to its singular identity — and, why not, even improve with time if styled accordingly. So much so that the headline of the Cucinelli notes read: “Timeless Reserves and New Blends.”
This translated into pairings that injected novelty with some tried and true Cucinelli designs. For example, a beautiful braided cardigan was lined with the softest down padding, worn over pin-striped pants.
Knitwear is a Cucinelli forte and this collection didn’t disappoint with either lightweight sweaters in wool and silk worn under tailored blazers, or thicker cashmere designs that had an outdoorsy feel.
Wine was also the inspiration for the intense shades of red — Barbera, maroon and burgundy — that at times had a grayish hue that conveyed the idea of an aging process. Beige, camel, sand, panama and ecru contrasted with deep or light blue. Red velvet stood out on tuxedo jackets but also in a waterproof model that was part of Cucinelli’s first ski capsule.
Outerwear pieces were a standout, ranging from sartorial coats to parkas. Luxurious beaver fabrics or cozy cashmere and vicuña enriched bomber and aviator jackets lined in a soft shearling.
The suit was the cornerstone of the collection, presented in a comfortable and versatile way, mixing jackets — often double-breasted — with different pants, such as loose and high-rise styles or with pleated details.
Field jackets with four pockets, also in suede with a shearling lining, will surely have buyers whip out their order books.