Calling his fall collection “Interventions” was a self-explanatory move for Shikama Hideaki, whose upcycled, make do and mend streetwear garb is the result of fabric layering and the mixing of references to his native Japan’s street countercultures.
The lineup was light on his signature bandana motif, seen on a standout navy puffer, and was replaced by a nature-inspired camouflage motif, dark paisley patterns — on a fleece and cotton rain jacket for example — logos of fictional companies and graffiti, which ran here and there down shearling-lined parkas, duster coats and shirt jackets.
His penchant for patchwork echoed in the juxtaposition of textured fabrics, sewn together to dissonant effect, as in oversize tops with front flap pockets in technical gabardine, windbreakers made of different graphic-bearing panels and workwear pants with rectangular holes that revealed the lining textile beneath.
He topped loose and cuffed bottoms and cargo pants with vintage military-nodding outerwear — parkas, vests and field jackets — as a purposeful move. In email exchanges, Hideaki said that the collection, presented again via video featuring Japan’s hip-hop sensation B.I.G.Joe, was his cry for peace at a time when the conflict is still ravaging Ukraine.