Giorgio Armani revealed a new round incarnation of the runway theater at his Via Bergognone headquarters — and demonstrated that his attention to detail never wavers.
A few minutes before the advertised start time, the room still not yet full, he peered out from behind the bleachers to suss out the situation.
Perhaps he was extra eager because this was a solid and inventive Emporio Armani collection, rooted in military-influenced styles and enlivened with plush and shimmering textures.
Models marched out in fur-trimmed great coats, gray flannel flight suits and off-duty Prince of Wales tailoring, their heads topped with leather aviator helmets and their feet shod in the chunky-heeled, midheight boots that are sweeping the Milan shows. Some boots had little utility bags strapped to one ankle.
The show progressed by color story: first cozy beige and greige, then black and brown leather, some spice-toned velvets, some vibrant purples and pinks, culminating with navy and black, including handsome brass-button ceremonial-style jackets.
There was plenty to like, with some slim tailoring worked in among the cozy, more generous silhouettes. His wide flannel pants, cropped like culottes, may not be for everyone. Ditto the loose pajama styles that closed the show, glimmering with sequins or flecked with crystals.
But kudos to the designer for finding new things to say with men’s pants. Before taking his bow, he stooped to pick up one of the utility bags that had loosened from an ankle and held it up triumphantly.