For fall 2023, London-based Jordan Bowen and Luca Marchetto reflected on the current uncertain times. Global warming, war, the pandemic and social tensions were obvious to the designers, who wondered what a wardrobe to navigate such a moment should look like.
Rather than a style, their biggest focus was on posture, which sparked a deep-dive on garment construction. They created what Marchetto described as the “bulldog” shoulder, which lent suits, knits and cashmere coats the impression of bulk and forward movement. It was the duo’s way to metaphorically telegraph the need to act, keep going with determination and confronting whatever lies ahead. More pragmatically, it offered an edgy tweak on classic silhouettes and wryly reimagined other wardrobe staples, such as shirts and ties buttoned up and knotted on a shoulder.
The sense of movement was amplified by the designers’ signature flared denim pants with sweeping trains at the back as well as pleated skirts and dresses in printed silks.
To temper the tough mood, the duo also introduced elements of fantasy via digital prints of fairies, sensual transparencies contrasting with crafty chunky knits, as well as camouflage patterns rendered in pink for a bright accent.
Yet the designers’ personal high note was the collaboration with British sportswear brand Lonsdale, which they have always appreciated for its heritage and that it had never worked with a fashion brand before. The tie-up resulted in reworked archive prints and pieces, including an off-the-shoulder fleece sweater, a sliced hoodie layered over a biker jacket and triple-band logo briefs.